I still hadn’t fully recovered from the euphoria of my Mt. Ulap adventure when I found myself packing my bags once again. This time, I was heading north for another escapade with Livemore Adventures and Tours, ready to create new memories. Initially, I had planned to head south for a Caramoan adventure, drawn by the promise of pristine beaches and island-hopping bliss. However, fate had other plans. Due to unforeseen circumstances, the Caramoan tour was canceled. With my adventurous spirit unwilling to be dampened, I seized the opportunity to join the Sagada tour instead—a destination famed for its rugged beauty, rich culture, and soul-stirring landscapes.
The Midnight Escape: On the Road to the North
As with all Livemore trips, our meeting point was the KFC at Araneta Cubao, conveniently located near Shopwise. I arrived around 9:00 PM, way too early for our 11:00 PM call time. But with the sky threatening a heavy downpour, I figured it was better to be safe (and dry) than sorry.
Slowly, my fellow travelers trickled in, their eyes twinkling with excitement. With everyone gathered, we boarded our van and hit the road before midnight, our hearts racing with anticipation for the weekend ahead.
Our route took us along the Manila-Banaue-Sagada highway, a scenic and winding path cutting through the mountains. We made a few stopovers to pick up additional participants—first at McDonald’s along Mindanao Avenue, then at two more locations. By the time we were finally complete, the van was buzzing with chatter and laughter, despite the late hour.
As the journey stretched into the early morning, most of the passengers drifted off to sleep. The rhythmic hum of the engine and the gentle sway of the vehicle lulled us into a dreamlike slumber, oblivious to the moderate traffic caused by road construction projects along the way.
Sunrise Stopover: Solano Breakfast and Banaue’s Grandeur
By 6:30 AM, we rolled into Solano, Nueva Vizcaya for our first major stop. We eagerly piled out of the van and into McDonald’s, famished and craving a hot breakfast. With full plates and steaming cups of coffee, we refueled and stretched our legs, preparing for the next leg of the drive.
A couple of hours later, we reached Banaue. The familiar arch welcoming us into the municipality marked our entrance into one of the most iconic regions in the Philippines. The sun had risen by then, painting the sky with a soft golden hue as it illuminated the undulating mountains.
Our first sightseeing stop was at the Banaue Rice Terraces Viewpoint in Poblacion. Stepping out of the van, I was greeted by a view so breathtaking it made my heart skip a beat. The 2,000-year-old terraces, carved into the mountains by the indigenous Ifugao people, stood as a testament to human ingenuity and resilience. Seeing them in person—far grander and more awe-inspiring than any postcard or photograph—felt surreal.
Dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World,” the terraces stretched into the horizon, their verdant steps glistening under the morning sun. We spent some time marveling at the scene, snapping photos against the panoramic backdrop.
Scattered around the viewpoint were several souvenir shops offering an assortment of trinkets. I wandered through the stalls, picking up hand-carved wooden keychains, colorful woven bags, and magnets to commemorate the experience. Though tempted by the larger woodworks, I stuck with the smaller items for easier packing.
The Road to Sagada: Arrival and Adventure
After spending nearly an hour admiring the terraces, we hopped back into the van and continued toward Sagada. The road snaked through towering pine trees, winding around mountains, and offering occasional glimpses of rolling hills and deep ravines.
By the time we arrived in Sagada, it was already 1:30 PM—significantly behind schedule. We were supposed to have been there earlier, but with the scenic stops and traffic delays, our itinerary was already veering off course. Not that anyone minded. The group’s spirits remained high, eager for the adventure that awaited us.
We quickly checked into our transient lodging, a cozy and rustic guesthouse nestled amidst the mountain town’s charming landscape. After a quick lunch at 2:00 PM, we geared up for the day’s main event: spelunking.
The Ultimate Spelunking Challenge: Lumiang to Sumaguing Cave
Our first activity was no leisurely stroll—it was an extreme caving adventure. Some of my fellow travelers were initially hesitant, intimidated by the idea of crawling through dark, narrow caverns. However, after some convincing (and the promise of epic bragging rights), they mustered the courage to join us.
We opted for the Lumiang to Sumaguing Cave Connection, a route that turned out to be far more challenging—and thrilling—than any of us had anticipated.
We reached the entrance of Lumiang Cave at around 3:45 PM. Its gaping mouth was shadowy and ominous, with massive boulders guarding the opening. Nearby, we passed by centuries-old wooden coffins, remnants of ancient Igorot burial practices. The sight of the aged, stacked coffins was both eerie and fascinating—a sobering reminder of the region’s rich history.
Once inside, the real adventure began. The cave’s passages were narrow, forcing us to crawl on all fours and squeeze through seemingly impossible crevices. We descended slippery rock faces, using ropes to rappel down jagged surfaces. Some sections required us to wade through icy, knee-deep pools, the chill seeping through our shoes and biting at our legs.
The deeper we ventured, the more surreal the scenery became. Stalactites and stalagmites gleamed in the dim light, forming otherworldly shapes. Some resembled curtains of wax, while others took on eerie, human-like figures. The cave’s chambers were cathedral-like, with massive rock formations towering over us.
By the time we emerged from Sumaguing Cave at 8:00 PM, we were drenched, exhausted, and exhilarated. Our van was supposed to pick us up, but feeling giddy with adrenaline, we decided to walk the 45-minute trek back to our lodging instead. The cold night air clung to our damp clothes, but the camaraderie kept us warm.
A Simple Yet Satisfying Dinner
Back at the transient house, we eagerly changed into dry clothes, only to realize that most of the local restaurants had already closed. Hungry and unwilling to go to bed on empty stomachs, we pooled our money and raided the store beside our lodging, which was just about to shut its doors.
Grateful for the store owner’s kindness, we managed to grab some supplies. Our humble dinner consisted of canned corned beef, tocino, and rice. Though far from fancy, the simple meal, shared with newfound friends, tasted better than any gourmet feast.
Kiltepan Sunrise: Sea of Clouds and Sea of Crowds
The next morning, we were up before the sun. By 4:00 AM, we were already en route to Kiltepan Viewpoint, determined not to miss the famed sea of clouds.
As the first rays of sunlight pierced the horizon, the sky transformed into a canvas of orange, pink, and gold, casting a warm glow over the rolling mist. The clouds floated like cotton waves, creating an ethereal, dreamlike scene. The view was so breathtaking that I momentarily forgot to take photos, simply standing in awe of the beauty before me.
Of course, we weren’t alone. Kiltepan was packed with travelers, their silhouettes dotting the ridge. The sea of clouds was rivaled by the sea of crowds, but the spectacle made it all worthwhile. Nearby, vendors sold hot coffee and light snacks, providing much-needed warmth against the chilly morning breeze.
Top-Loading Jeepney Ride and Hanging Coffins
Descending from Kiltepan, we decided to spice up the experience by riding “top-load” on a jeepney—a quintessential Sagada experience. Perched on the roof, with the wind whipping through my hair and the mountains unfurling around me, I felt utterly free. The bumpy ride, while slightly nerve-wracking, was exhilarating beyond words.
The jeep dropped us off at the Church of St. Mary the Virgin, a serene stone church built during the American colonial period. From there, we trekked along the Echo Trail, making our way through the Echo Valley and the Sagada Public Cemetery.
The final stop was the Hanging Coffins, one of Sagada’s most iconic landmarks. Suspended on a limestone cliff, the centuries-old coffins were painted with symbols, representing the Igorot people’s beliefs in the afterlife. The sight was both haunting and beautiful—a tangible link to the region’s cultural roots.
The Final Adventure: Pongas Twin Waterfalls
After a hearty breakfast, we geared up for one final adventure—the Pongas Twin Waterfalls. The van dropped us at the jump-off point, and we began an hour-and-a-half trek through rugged terrain.
Reaching the waterfalls felt like stepping into a hidden paradise. The twin cascades roared down from towering cliffs, their icy waters crashing into a crystal-clear pool. Without hesitation, I dipped my feet into the frigid water, instantly refreshed by its coolness.
Farewell to Sagada
After a late lunch at Salt and Pepper, we reluctantly bid Sagada farewell. Though we were supposed to stop at Benguet’s Highest Point, the weather had other plans. A thick fog engulfed the road, and rain began to fall, forcing us to skip the stop.
The ride home was filled with laughter and camaraderie, as though we had been lifelong friends. Though the itinerary wasn’t perfect, the memories we made were more than enough.
Until next time, Sagada—you’ll always have a piece of my heart.